I must admit that I’ve never been game enough — or silly enough? — to do a bungy jump.
The flight into Queenstown wasn't too bad, despite the proximity of some pretty rugged terrain. Although, I am told that when the clouds and turbulence close in it can get a bit hairy.
The flight in is quite mesmerizing. It is a near-fine Spring day. Peaks extend all the way from the South Island’s west coast to Queenstown, freshly dusted with snow and looking just simply gorgeous.
You suddenly realise that it’s very different country to the rolling hills and flat plains of Central Western NSW. My journey had commenced there the day before. The next day I was driven past the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge where AJ Hackett took bungy jumping to a commercial level in 1989. This gained worldwide notoriety for Queenstown.
Touch down in Queenstown
I’m picked up from the airport by the Director of Operations at the very classy lakeside Rees Hotel. He gives me a quick tour of the town. Later, I join him for dinner in the hotel’s True South Dining Room.
Next morning I’m met in the Rees foyer by one of Appellation Wine Tours most experienced guides. Gavin is originally based in the UK. These days he is an old Queenstown hand with plenty of local knowledge to impart.
The plan for the morning is to explore several local spots before settling on a lunch destination in the historic heart of Arrowtown. In the afternoon, we’ll indulge in tastings at a selection of Central Otago’s renowned wineries.
Sightseeing galore
Everything unfolds just as planned. However, I must confess, I quickly grow a bit numb to the city’s stunning natural beauty and its immediate surroundings. Friends who have completely fallen in love with the area are absolutely right in their praise.
The drive to our first destination, Moke Lake, is nothing short of breathtaking. Towering, snow-capped peaks frame vibrant green hills reminiscent of Ireland. This is all set against brilliant blue lakes—truly a feast for the eyes.
Moke Lake itself is a serene and exquisite spot. It is an isolated, largely untouched retreat with just a handful of campers savoring the peaceful atmosphere.
Accessed via a manageable dirt road, it’s the kind of hidden gem you’d only find if you knew where to look. I later learn that acclaimed filmmaker Jane Campion runs a women’s camp further along the lake’s shore.
After such an overwhelming display of natural beauty, you might expect everything else to pale in comparison. However, as Normie Rowe once sang, “it ain’t necessarily so.”
I meet the warm and charismatic American-born artist Thomas L. Brown and get a tour of his remarkable studio. Later, I pause to admire Lake Hayes—much larger than Moke Lake—as I make my way toward the charming township of Arrowtown.
Exploring the township
Arrowtown is a charming town. It is rich in history thanks to its gold-prospecting roots, though it does come with its share of typical tourist trappings.
For lunch, I opt for Terra Mia—a lively, family-run Italian spot right on the main street. The pizza is solid, paired perfectly with a couple of glasses of local rosé.
Later, I join a group of five for a Central Otago wine tasting. I shift from solo explorer to part of a small crew.
Wine tasting in Otago
Not so long ago they reckoned that Central Otago was too cold for viticulture. Though it’s probably the world’s most southerly wine region, it experiences quite hot, dry summers. As a result, it has no problem ripening some of the world’s best pinot noir.
One of the participants has been world-renowned film actor Sam Neill, who started his Two Paddocks venture in 1993.
These days, the area sports more than 40 significant vineyards and wineries. I covered three of them that afternoon — Akarua Wines, Gibbston Valley and Kinross.
Kinross … a great tasting of wines by smaller growers.
The latter was certainly the most interesting, acting as cellar door for a number of Central Otago’s smaller producers.
For a former winemaker, it was a bit of a ‘dog-in-a-forest exercise’ of what to try next. However, I think it was Grant Taylor’s pinots from Valli Vineyards that really set the tastebuds thinking and chattering.
He’s won the title of producing the world’s best pinot noir an unprecedented four times in London. He won in respected international competition and it’s quite obviously world-class red.
A sip certainly set the scene for the following night’s degustation dinner at the Rees Hotel. We enjoyed a line-up of Central Otago pinots from Felton Road, one of the region’s top producers of the variety.
John Rozentals was a guest of the Rees Hotel and Queenstown Tourism.
